Seeing the Indian Ocean

Lots of stuff has happened since I left London. Leaving London Bridge was an excursion in itself. Because of the police activity the main entrance to the LB Tube Station was closed off. So, I had to finagle another way to get in. After dodging some po-po and ducking the yellow tape, I got into the station, got back on to the Tube, and went off to the airport to get my “checked” luggage, check-in, and get on my plain to Nairobi, Kenya.

I started my Heathrow experience on a low note having problems checking-in with Kenya Airways. They had given my seat to someone else, so I didn’t have the aisle seat I reserved; they gave me a window seat instead. I was burnt, but too tired to bitch and moan about it.

My saving grace was meeting a really wonderful woman from Cameroon, West Africa. Her name is Bernadette Fonge. While on the plane, Bernadette and I joked and laughed, watched “Vantage Point”, talked politics and social development, and bullshitted the whole way. It was an over-night flight, but unfortunately she and I couldn’t sleep. We got some wine (South African Chardonnay) and talk more about her life as well as mine. She’s a brilliant woman with some real need and want for social change in her country and is acting on and for it. She is a real inspiration.

After a crazy long flight, we finally touched down in Nairobi at 6:45am Saturday (11:45pm EST, Friday). Bernadette was sweet enough to walk me to my terminal and gate for my next flight to Dar Es Salaam. She had a 6 hour layover in Nairobi, before going to Cameroon. While in Nairobi, I noticed that there was a shower and a place to sleep (for purchase of course) right by my gate. After checking-in AGAIN, I went back and took a shower. I was a little freaked out, though. The place looked like a bath house. Well, it had been almost 2 days since I had taken a shower and I was feeling really grimy, so I went in and took one.

After my shower and changing into a new outfit, I waited for my flight to Dar. While waiting I realized I was finally in Africa. I couldn’t believe it; I WAS IN AFRICA!!! All I could think was I’ve waited my whole life for this. It smelled different. It looked different. It even felt different. I was excited to know that I was in the Motherland; the center of human existence. WOW!!!

While in the cabin, waiting for my flight to taxi and take-off, I met 2 of the volunteers from CCS: Melanie and Allison. Melanie is from Canada and is very down to earth and cool. Allison is from California and is super funny, loves to have a good time and full of personality. We hit if off right away. Melanie is more laid back and Allison is very exuberant. I also met a really nice guy from London. Well, he was actually from Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania, but had moved to London. He was on his way back to Dar on business. He is a tech geek, and is super cool, smart, and charismatic. He is a consultant for a computer networking firm. We shot the shit on our flight. We talked about ourselves, he filled me in on Tanzania, and just chilled. It was great!

An hour had passed as did Mt. Kilimanjaro (I missed it because I fell asleep) we landed in Dar Es Salaam. FINALLY, I HAD MADE IT TO TANZANIA!!! After a day and a half of traveling I made it to my final destination. However, the fact that I was in Dar Es Salaam Tanzania still didn’t hit me! It wasn’t until much later that it would.

I hooked up with Allison and Melanie at the place where you show your visa, just before baggage claim. (I want to say Customs, but the word is escaping me) CCS was due to pick us up at 3:30pm and it was 10am. We had a lot of time to kill. After much lollygagging and checking our emails, we decided to take a tour of Dar Es Salaam. We hooked up with a tour guide named Saidi (Sah-ee-dee). He was incredibly chill. As a matter of fact I realized that everyone we came in contact with was incredibly chill. The pace in Tanzania was much slower than that of NYC. And the people actually greet you with a warm and welcoming “Mambo?!” (What’s up?!). Hence the name of the city Dar Es Salaam; it means “City of Peace”.

In a small and beaten up Honda Camry with the driver side on the right (like London), Saidi took us around town for a couple of hours. We passed the City Center (kind of like a downtown, market place area), passed a couple of big hotels, and passed the local towns people, all whom were staring at the mzungus (white people). Funny thing is in America, I am not white. But here, I am considered to be one. I’m assuming that word also means foreigner. Anyway, we told Saidi that sisi tu njaa (we were hungry). He took us over to the fish market. This was my first experience of culture shock. The fish market looked like a giant flea market where the mwuzaji (sellers) were under a huge concrete shed. It smelled pretty horrible, but the sights were super interesting. It finally hit me: This was Tanzania! Everyone was trying to sell us something. From raw fish to cooked; from hand-made jewelry to beautiful seashells. I made my first purchase here. I was too afraid to eat anything here, so I opted to buy the seashells. I couldn’t help it, the mwuzaji ran after me to greet me and show me these absolutely gorgeous seashells. They were also a bargain at 10,000 shillings (equivalent to $8.70 USD). BTW, the exchange rate is 1150 shillings to $1. So freaking ridiculous!!! The fish market was just off the beach so we got to see the men fishing in the boats and even swimming with snorkel goggles trying to fish with their bare hands. The beach was beautiful; the water crystal blue and green. This was my first time seeing the Indian Ocean.

Mel, Alli, Saidi, and I decided we’d go get a bia baridi (cold beer) at another beach. So we drove passed a bunch of Embassies and the President’s house to Coco Beach. I asked for Tatu Bia Baridi, (3 cold beers. Yes they drink warm beer hear!) and a Coke for Allison. She doesn’t drink bia. Saidi order grilled goat. It was a little gamy, but satisfying for the moment. While sitting on the beach, we witnessed a birthday Sherehe (party). They sang a happy birthday song with a completely different tune than that of the one we sing. It was joyous and so wonderful to watch. We headed back to the airport after our bia baridi. We had an hour left before CCS was to show up. We engaged in conversation with Saidi in our broken Swahili and his broken English on the ride back. We talked about his family and how he likes to go clubbing once in a while. He even asked me if I’d join him for a weekend. He gave me his phone number. LOL

When we made it to the airport, a group of mzungus were grouped together. I saw some with the CCS t-shirts, so we made our way over to them. We also ran into some volunteers who were on their way out. There were about 15 of them waiting. Alli, Mel, and I were greeted by Didase, one of the driver for CCS. With a giant smile and a warm Karibuni sana (Welcome All!) we greeted by this wonderful man.

I seemed to be the life of the party in our party. I greeted the whole group with a HAMJAMBO CCS which seemed to get everyone cheering!!! We were all huddled together introducing ourselves to each other. I escape the little mzungu crowd and went over to talk to Didase. We waited for some other flights from Dubai and Nairobi to arrive with some more volunteers.

At about 4:30, all the CCS volunteers were all accounted for and ready to head to Bagamoyo. We all packed into 3 small buses (2 for volunteers, 1 for our luggage). We were finally on our way. This is where we met Tuma. Tuma is one of the guards at CCS. He is a beautiful man with a Taye Diggs smile that just lights up his face. (Sorry baby!) He seems to be the popular one with the girls here. It's funny to see him surrounded by the girls here. Tuma is poa sana (very cool) and just safi (great)! Anyway, our ride was a long ass ride on a long unlit, paved road.

After almost 2 hours and a very sore ass, we made it to the home-base in Bagamoyo. We were greeted with a Habari za jioni (Good evening! Literally translated: What's the new this evening?) and chakula za jioni (dinner). Of course I was famished being that I didn't really eat anything because we were urged not to eat anything uncooked or peeled. At this point I had only put a bia and grilled goat in my stomach.

My time is up at the internet cafe. More to come soon!